Along the way

The Cordillera Blanca, true "sea of mountains" is the most beautiful collection of 6 000 meters peak after the Himalayan range (Alpamayo, Huandoy, Chopicalqui...), offers an unusual variety over a distance of 125 miles. Difficult to ignore such a monument! The range is cut by high valleys perpendicular to the Callejon (quebradas) cutting deeply into the rangeand clearly separating the groups of summits. Almost the entire range is part of the Huascaran national park. Glaciers, lakes, and river can express themselves fully in this protected environment.

Huascarán S and N (el. 6768 and 6664 m.a.s.l.)

Highest point in Peru, the South summit Sud has been very coveted these last few years, serac falls threatening the access to the pass between the two summits called the Garganta, has made the ascent particularly dangerous especially in the last few years. The route of the "escudo", great ice triangle on the West face if the South summit is harder (D+) but safer.

Access: From Huaraz, go to the village of Musho via Mancos located on the main road leading to Yungay. In Musho, mules and muleteers are available to reach the base camp located at el. 4150 m.a.s.l. (3-4h), left of the glacier coming down from the pass between the two Huascarán, the Garganta. The route is direct, through fields, a eucalyptus plantation and then on the moraine (Watch out for theft at base camp, don’t leave anything in sight and if you hide your belongings, make sure no one is watching).

Itinerary (Glacial climb PD to AD, exposed to serac falls, SW slope to the pass then S or NW for Huascarán N and S, 3 days) : Reach the glacier by following the cairns, to the right of a stream and then on slabs, in direction of the South summit. Climb on the glacier at about 4800 meters of altitude to the right of the lowest arm. Once on the glacier, climb directly in the direction of the serac fall located to the right of the Garganta, following a snow slopes cut by crevasses, first easy (Camp at 5250 m.a.s.l., 4-5h) then steeper (30-35°). At 5700-5800 m.a.s.l., a large crevasse that need to be crossed can at time create serious problems for the team. Once this obstacle passed, cross to the left to reach the Garganta. This portion of the climb is very dangerous because of its location at the vertical of the serac’s fall line (Camp at 5900 m.a.s.l.just under the Garganta, 5h). Then climb to the pass itself (el. 6000 m.a.s.l.) and from there, following a frozen itinerary on slopes reaching 40°, climb on the South crest of Huascarán N and then reach the summit (6-8h). Or cross the Garganta to the NE, climb a steep snow face 40° towards the seracs, cross the crevasse at its top by the right, and easily reach the South summit from there (7-9h).

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Daily program

Day 1: LIMA / RECEPTION

Reception upon arrival at Jorge Chavez airport, in Lima.
Transfer to the hotel.
Meals open.

Day 2: LIMA – HUARAZ (regular bus)

Transfer to the Lima land terminal.
Journey by bus with destination Huaraz, main departure point for the numerous treks in the White Cordillera and Huayhuash.
Reception and transfer to the hotel.
Meals open.

Note 1: Visitors are not accompanied by a guide on the bus journey – around six hours of travel-time.

Note 2: Timetable and specific transport company details to be communicated to visitors upon arrival in Peru.

Day 3: HUARAZ – CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – HUARAZ

In the morning, departure in a private vehicle for Chavin de Huantar.
Visit of the archaeological site that used to be, more than 2500 years ago, an important pilgrimage centre, where people traveled great distances to bring offerings in order to consult the prestigious oracle of the temple.
In the late morning, return by road and transfer to the hotel in Huaraz. Free time at the end of the day.
Meals open.

Note: around 70 miles.

Day 4:HUARAZ – LAGUNA PARON – HUARAZ / TREK

In the morning, departure in a private vehicle for the Paron Lagoon, one of the largest lakes of the White Cordillera, with turquoise waters, and surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Return by road and transfer to the hotel in Huaraz. Cold lunch included. Dinner open.
Hiking time: around 6 hours; Distance: 9 miles;
Elevation gain: + 170 meters – 170 meters.

Day 5: HUARAZ - QUEBRADA QUILCAYHUANCA – TULLPACOCHA - PITEC / TREK

Morning departure in our private vehicle to the Portada de Quilcayhuanca.
Day-hike to Lake Tullpacocha, at 4 250 meters above sea level, allowing the discovery of the valley and the observation of numerous bird species.
Camp at Pitec.
Meals included.
Elevation gain: + 350 m, - 350 m; Length: 8-hour; Distance: 16 miles

Day 6: PITEC - LAGUNA CHURUP – UNCHUS – HUARAZ / TREK

Trekking day to Lake Churup, located at an altitude of el. 4 500 m.a.s.l. The lake is interesting because of the strange shapes of its shores and the changing colors of its water.
We continue on to the village of Unchus, to meet our ride to Huaraz. Night in a hotel.
Cold lunch included. Dinner open.
Elevation gain/loss: + 585 m/- 1100 m; Hiking time: 7 to 8 hours; Distance: 9.5 miles

Pisco Ascent – 4 days

Day 7: HUARAZ – PISCO BASE CAMP / ASCENT

In the morning, departure by private vehicle for Cebollapampa, departure point of the hike to the base camp.
Night at camp at an altitude of 4350 meters a.s.l. (el. 14,271 feet).
Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours; Elevation gain: + 450 m (1,476 feet)

Day 8: BASE CAMP – CAMP MORAINE / ASCENT

Day dedicated to the ascent to Camp Moraine. Night at camp (el. 4950 m.a.s.l. / 16,240 feet).
Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours; Elevation gain: + 600 m (1,968 feet)

Day 9: PISCO ASCENT (el. 5752 m.a.s.l.) / ASCENT

In the early morning, we start the ascent of Pisco, at an altitude of 5752 m.a.s.l (el. 18,871 feet). Night at Camp Moraine.
Hiking time: 7 to 8 hours; Elevation gain/loss: + 800 m (2,624 feet)/– 800 m (2,624 feet).

Day 10: CAMP MORAINE – HUARAZ / ASCENT

Return to Cebollapampa, and then to Camp Moraine. Transfer by bus to Huaraz.
Hiking time: around 4 hours; Elevation loss: - 1050 m (3 444 feet).

Huascaran Ascent - 6 days

Day 11: HUARAZ – CAMP REFUGE (HUASCARAN) / ASCENT

In the morning we take to bus to Musho, departure point of our trek. We hike to the Huascaran base camp where we spend the night at el. 4 800 m.a.s.l. (el. 15,748 feet).
Hiking time: 7 about hours: Elevation gain: + 1800 m (5,905 feet); length: 7 hours.

Day 12: CAMP REFUGE (HUASCARAN) – CAMP I / ASCENT

Ascent to Camp I, at el. 5 500 m.a.s.l. (el. 18,044 feet).
Hiking time: 4 to 5 hours; Elevation gain: + 700 m (2,296 feet)

Day 13: CAMP I - CAMP II (GARGANTA) / ASCENT

We climb to Camp II, Garganta at el. 6 000 m.a.s.l. (el. 19,638 feet).
Magnificent view over the Cordillera Blanca.
Hiking time: 5 to 6 hours; Elevation gain: + 500 m (1,640 feet).

Day 14: HUASCARAN ASCENT (el. 6 768 m.a.s.l.) / ASCENT

Day dedicated to the ascent of majestic Huascaran, reaching el 6 768 m.a.s.l. (el. 22,204 feet) Night at the altitude camp on the glacier.
Hiking time: 8 to 10 hours; Elevation gain/loss: + 768 m (2,519 feet)/- 768 m (2,519 feet).

Day 15: DESCENT TO BASE CAMP/ ASCENT

Descent towards the base camp. Night at camp.
Hiking time: 6 to 7 hours; Elevation gain: + 1750 m (5,741 feet).

Day 16: BASE CAMP – HUARAZ / ASCENT

In the morning, hike to Musho. Then transfer to the hotel in Huaraz by private vehicle.
Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours; Elevation loss: - 1250 m (4,101 feet).

Day 17:HUARAZ / DAY OPEN + HUARAZ – LIMA (night bus)

Day open in the capital of the Ancash region.
Transfer to the bus station at the end of the for night ride to Lima.
Meals open.

Day 18:LIMA / INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE

Three hours before take-off, transfer to Jorge Chavez airport in Lima.
Connection with the international return flight.
Meals open.

Included

Spanish-speaking guide (members of the associations of mountaineering guides des guides for the ascents)
One guide for 3 people for Huascaran ascent
One guide for 5 people for Pisco ascent
Cook (and one assistant starting with 6 people)
Mules and muleteers for portage of collective and personal equipment
Horse in case of emergency
Collective equipment (tents, ropes, floor mat, tables, chairs, cooking gear, oxygen bottle, pharmacy)
Transportation mentioned (including the bus ride between Lima and Huaraz)
Private transfers airport – bus terminal / hotel with Spanish-speaking driver
Entrance to site and museum of Chavin de Huantar
3-star hotels in double or triple rooms with breakfast
Meals mentioned (s well as snacks for the ascents)
Team expenses during the ascents (transportation, hotels, meals, etc.)

Not included

Option to rent mountaineering gear in Huaraz
International round-trip flight
Individual equipment (sleeping bag, ice-axe, crampons, helmet, headlamp, etc.)
Entrance to Huascaran National Park
Mandatory travel insurance
Drinks
Tips
Airport taxes (from $ 6 US per person for domestic flights, $ 30 US per person pour for international flights)
Meals mentioned “open”