Peru, a country of mountaineering feats. Claude and Georges Kogan, Lionel Terray, René Desmaison, Nicolas Jaeger, Renatto Casarotto, and many others, all familiar names in this country rich in high mountains. No less than 18 Cordilleras (mountain ranges) are strung along the length of the famous Cordillera of the Andes but only a few are known by mountaineers, such as the better known Cordillera Blanca. But what were our famous ancestors looking for in these high mountains? The trip, the change of scenery, untouched horizons, the glory of new conquests, an encounter with a hospitable people and an understanding of its millennium culture, mountains with perfect shapes worthy of any dream? Admittedly, some “First Ascents” were not even true first ascents! The Incas, long before the Spanish conquistadors reached some of these summits, ritual place to worship their Gods, to gain their favors and the mercy of the volcanoes. Recently, in 1995, Inca mummies were found dating 5 centuries back, in the crater of Ampato volcano near Aréquipa at 6300 meters of altitude.

We had to wait until the 20th century for the highest Peruvian summits to be climbed. In 1932, Schneider, Hein and three more companions reach the southern summit of Huascarán, highest point in Peru. In 1951, a team of French climbers from Nice lead by the Kogans successfully climbed Pisco, Quitaraju and Alpamayo considered then and now as the most beautiful mountain in the world. Pisco, the mountain, was named after a local alcohol drink which was, unfortunately, not available for the summit celebration. A year later, Claude returns to Peru and succeeded in doing the first ascent of Salcantay, a beautiful summit near Cuzco. In 1956, Lionel Terray discover the country of the Incas. He revolutionized the mountaineering style of that time by introducing a new way of climbing called alpine style, lighter and faster. He employed this style of climbing on the long Northern arete of Huantsan. He was the first to reach its magnificent summit. “This short expedition to Peru on these peaks of stunning shapes, with gigantic cornices and drapes of ice adorned with an elegance that can not be equaled, will remain one of the best souvenirs of my life” he writes in his book: “Les Conquérants de l’Inutile”. He returned four years later to trace audacious lines on the steep and virgin summits of the Vilcabamba Cordillera, the Soray and Nevado Veronica and in the Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju and Taulliraju. In the 70s, all the main summits are climbed. Then started the time where the mountaineers look for difficulty and climb the most direct routes possible at the time. René Desmaison stays one of the masters in this domain. He even brought back movies of his most memorable ascents, which was extremely avant-garde at the time, like the one of the South face of Huandoy South, the East arête of Chopicalqui or the South face of Chacraraju West. Nicolas Jaeger, by his impressive solos of Nevado Santa Cruz or Taulliraju has also left his mark. Doctor, in love with Peru, he spent two months on the summit of Huascarán South at an altitude of 6768 m.a.s.l. to study the effects of altitude on the human body. Lets not forget the Joe Simpson and Simon Yates’ incredible adventure, who after opening a new route on Siula Grande in the Huayhash Cordillera, were stuck by bad luck on their way down. I could not recommend you enough to read the book depicting their epic, “Touching the void” book that was recently turned into a movie.

The “First ascents” are not there for the taking anymore, but adventure remains present in this country of multiple Cordilleras. The small village of Huaraz in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, has slowly evolved into a tourist center, a meeting place for climbers from all over the world come here to try themselves on the countless nearby nevados. Hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, shops offer all sorts of facilities and progressively diminish the Andean atmosphere of Ancash the capital of the region. But, as soon as we leave the city behind, we realize that the mountains have stayed authentic. Quickly, we have the impression that we are walking in our predecessors’ steps. Whatever ascents we plan, adventure is omnipresent. For those for which traveling rhymes with unknown, isolation, or discovery of indigenous populations and traditional cultures, a detour by the unknown Cordilleras of this country is mandatory. And as far as that goes, the choices are wide: Cordillera La Viuda, Sara Sara, Huanzo, Urubamba, La Raya, Carabaya, Aricoma, etc., so many names to spark your interest. I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to do a tour around the Llongote Cordillera and I have wonderful memory of it. The Cordillera Vilcanota sheltering gems like its highest summit Ausangate or it immediate neighbor Mariposa take the traveler to the heart of traditional Peru. Each year, the pilgrimage to Qollu Riti in June attracts thousands of people on the glaciers. Finally, for those who visit Peru to retrace the steps of the Incas, the ascent of the volcanoes in the vicinity of Aréquipa will maybe offer an opportunity to discover a mummy, prisoner of the ice since centuries past…

Text of Patrick Wagnon, Mountaineer and glaciologist