ASCENTS IN THE CORDILLERA REAL

HUAYNA POTOSI - el. 6088 m.a.s.l

To land in La Paz, the plane circumnavigates an impressive mountain. The Huayna Potosi, giving the trip its first strong emotion even before setting foot on firm ground. Huayna Potosi is a « real » 6000 meters (with ice even!): the most accessible of Bolivia. Less than an hour away from La Paz, we find a comfortable mountain shelter located at the base of the mountain. The classic route doesn’t present any particular technical difficulties. You just need to pay attention to the crevasses. Frequently done between April and September, the Classic route, is most usually marked starting from the shelter. Good physical condition and acclimatization will assure the success of the ascent. A good idea is to spend a night at the Milluni Shelter (1h in taxi from La Paz) — a nice place, unfortunately not always open—and then climb nearby Charquini, a fun way to acclimate well before attempting the more serious Huayna Potosi.

- A few routes are possible, from the Normal route to the French route, or the West Face (difficult with some mixed-climbing). Well acclimated, it is totally possible to reach the summit by the Normal route in a very long day (usually two days), without the intermediary camp to alleviate the weight of extra gear. It is not unusual to meet a dozen persons at the upper shelter also known as Camp des Roches (5450 m – after two hours of steep moraine climbing), sunbathing before the long day awaiting them next. But it is not a problem; the place is usually not crowded... Another altitude camp is possible, a little higher on the glacier and in tents at the Camp of the Argentines. From there (Normal route, grade II/AD, Max 50 °), follow the glacier towards the East Face. Then climb over a steep face (50 m high) to reach the arête on your right. Once on the arête, go to the left on the gradual slope. You will eventually reach the plateau under the summit by following a series of short steep sections near crevasses (45 minutes from Camp of the Argentines). For the summit, two possibilities: up the steep face in front of you (40/50°) or to cross the plateau until you reach the arête (on your left) and climb up the moderate arête. The second route is a lot less steep and longer. Descend following the same itinerary.

ILLIMANI Pico Sur - el. 6462 m.a.s.l.

Illimani is surely the best-known summit in Bolivia. It is an integral part of the panorama of the city of La Paz, the backdrop for a lively Andean market; it is so visible from the capital that it has become its emblem. As a matter of fact, in 1934, the Nazis had the bright idea of choosing it as a target, climbing to its summit to plant their swastika with the intent of provoquing the Jewish community of Bolivia. A few days later, A British climber also climbed to the summit of the big mountain to clean it of the symbol. Interesting prelude to the war that followed...


Illimani was climbed for the first time in 1877 by a French explorer, Charles Wiener. Their goal was to determine the exact altitude of the "monster". It was then estimated at close to 8000 meters! Note that it was possibly the first ascent of a 6000 meters peak in the Cordillera of the Andes, a real accomplishment considering the technical means as well as the knowledge of the time. Today, the climb to the summit can be done in three to four days from La Paz, instead of a week. More recently, Lionel Terray, while visiting Bolivia, was fascinated by this summit. In its honor (although Terray never climbed its summit), Alain Mesili, possibly the biggest Andinist at this time, named the Southwest route on Pico Norte « ruta Lionel ».

Despite its glorious past (The only Bolivian summit to be named in the « Encyclopedia of the mountains of the world» edited in the 60s), Illimani has a bad reputation due to the few accidents that happened on its slopes.

From La Paz, we can easily note its three summits: Pico Norte, Central and Sur (6462 m, highest point). 
- Normal route (elevation gain 1400 m, Grade II/PD, Max 50 °): From Pinaya, we reach on foot the site of Puente Roto (3-hour walk, 4400 m, the trail crosses an ancient mining track), establish the camp or keep on going until the « Nido de Los Condores » (Condor’s nest) (5-hour walk), following the ancient track towards the South for 15 minutes before heading up the rocky arête on your left. Follow the arête to camp (5450 m). Generally, crampons become necessary after this high altitude camp. From there plan about 5/7 hours to reach the summit. From the Nido de Los Condores, follow the steep arête towards the summit until you reach the rim aye. Then head North (left) before seeing the false summit. Climb then towards the South (right) to reach it. From the false summit, follow the snowy arête to the real summit. Descend following the same itinerary.

CONDORIRI - el. 5650 m.a.s.l.

The Condoriri mountain range is formed by 13 summits all exceeding 5000 meters in heights. The most known of this area is without a doubt the Condoriri, named for its shape: the one of a condor with its tucked wings. Superb summit, it is, like for a lot of people, one of my favorite ascents in the Cordillera Real. The classic route offers a few technical difficulties.

Sir Martin Conway, first Westerner to discover it in 1895, described it in theses terms:

"This strange mountain range, known as malefic and that the local peasants call the Kondoriri, is full of mysteries and inhabited by ferocious animals. At nightfall, we can see clouds of Condors flying over a gigantic wall of ice."

According to local myth, this mountainous area is the refuge of the largest condors of the Andes. Condors who can kidnap children in their cradle to make human-condors out of them. It is scary enough to want to go check it out... but the condors are rare today.

- If bad weather: go trout fishing in the lagunas surrounding the base camp of the laguna Char Khotia (check with the Quispe Mamani family in the village of Tuni).

- Route of the Cabeza del Condor (condor’s head), normal Southwest route (Grade III/AD+, Max 55 °):

From the base camp, follow the trail heading Northwest, in the direction of the Cabeza del Condor. The slope intensifies, to finally become very steep, and eventually reach a couloir that will take you to the glacier. Follow the glacier in the direction of the summit, via the snowy arête. The arête takes you to the summit and depending on the conditions, a second, more interesting itinerary can be chosen: Follow the snowy base of the Cabeza to the right leaving the arête behind. You will encounter a snowy couloir leading to the summital arête. This couloir, wide at first, narrows and steepens progressively until the arête. After climbing the couloir, follow the arête (exposed on both sides) to the right until reaching the summit. Descent: same itinerary.

ANCOHUMA - el. 6430 m.a.s.l.

For a long time, Ancohuma (« White waters» in Aymara) was believed by the Bolivian geographers to reach over 7000 meters in height, making it the highest summit outside of the Himalaya. 


To me, Ancohuma is the most attractive summit of the Cordillera Real, because of its pleasurable ascent. You first have to cross an immense glacier before following to the summit on a straight and uniform ice arête. It was climbed for the first time in 1919 by two Germans Dienst and Schulze, quite a feat considering the difficulty of the summit and the technology of the time.

- Normal route, via la Laguna Glaciar (Grade I/PD, elevation gain: 1000 m, 8 hours, 7 days from La Paz round-trip): from La Paz go to Sorata, then trek to the impressive site of the Laguna Glaciar (5040 m.a.s.l.) in two days (stop one night at Laguna Chillata / make sure you respect the place, it is sacred, please do not bathe in the laguna). All the muleteers from Sorata know the trail. The base camp is located above the Laguna glaciar (5200 m.a.s.l.).

The next day, climb some granite blocks for about 300 meters towards the South. Progress on rocks to the right until reaching the glacier (5500 m.a.s.l.). Higher, reach the moraine on the right of the glacier and follow it to the snow (5700 m.a.s.l.). The slope will take you to the ice plateau (5800 m.a.s.l.) that you need to cross until reaching the base of the principal Southwest summital arête. Set up the altitude camp. The climb to the summit follows the arête. To descend, follow the same itinerary.

JANKHO LAYA – el. 5545 m.a.s.l.

This little known summit is located in a seldom visited area of the Cordillera Real.

- Base camp: from the base of the Paso Mulla Apacheta (on the shores of Janco Cota), reach the end of the grassy flats, this area makes a nice base camp (4600 m.a.s.l. / 30 minutes). The water there is murky but with patience, you will find a few streams offering clear water.

- Normal route (Southeast Face, grade II, Max 60 °, 700 m of elevation gain, 6h): because of the recent glacier retreat, you will now have to cross a granite boulder field before finally arriving to the glacier (slope at 50/60 °). Once on the glacier, head towards the East arête, taking care of the crevasses. Then follow the arête to the summit. To descend, follow the same itinerary.