Descending from the Altiplano we discover a busy metropolis at the foot of majestic snow-capped summits. Rivaling the stunning sight of Rio or Hong-Kong, more than one and half million people inhabit La Paz, the highest capital in the world, situated at an altitude between 3200 and 4000 meters.
Founded by the Spanish Alonzo de Mendoza in 1548, to serve as relay between the rich cities of Cuzco and Potosí, La Paz leaves this role behind to supplant Sucre, the constitutional capital, and impose itself as the political center of the young nation, independent since 1825, in 1890.
A distinguished city full of contrasts, busy La Paz presents a mix of the ancient and the modern, the occidental and the indigenous for the traveler to discover. It is an eminent center for government, assemblies, culture and religion. From its colorful, bustling mercados (markets) among the most picturesque in South America, it is a short walk to the center of the business district located in the colonial heart of the city.
The neighborhoods become wealthier as we descend in the valley where the oxygen is denser and the temperature more pleasant.

ALASITAS

Every year in the city of La Paz, in February, happens a large popular festival, mix of religious fervor and Indian beliefs, the festival of the Alasitas.
The "Alasitas", meaning "buy me" in Aymara, is a meeting place for thousands and thousand of craftsmen, which, thanks to their skillful hands, fabricate miniatures objects that will be sold during the event. Every one of these objects symbolizes a dream, which, according to tradition, will become reality during the year. Its pure craziness in front of the stalls. The one planning on opening a grocery will buy all the products necessary… An other one dreams of building his own house?… He will buy mini cement bags fitting in the palm of his hand… an other wants to become mountain guide?… he buys miniature mountains or miniature ice axes…
For all the Indians living in the vicinity of the Cordillera Real, to visit the fair means dreaming of the cars they will one day drive, of the woman they will one day marry.
What could be better than imagining having a plane ticket in hand, while drinking a hot "api", a local corn based drink, and eating a cheese “empanada”?

At the end, during a colorful procession, each one of these objects has to be blessed by a “Kallawaya”, a sorcerer type medicine man respected by the natives (native of the Apolobamba Cordillera, located North of Lake Titicaca). It is a moment of great significance. A concert of illusions where everyone thinks of his dreams: the house, the healed disease, the diploma, the car, love.

THE LEGEND OF EKEKO

The legend behind the festival tells that many centuries ago, a man called Ekeko lived in the Andean Plateau; he was short, humble, and generous. His arrival at any village brought harmony and happiness. The Apu Qullana Qullo (Aymara for Sacred Father God) gave him special gifts and he was able to change nature itself. However, the happiness was over once the Awka (Devil) arrived; the devil in Bolivia is depicted as a young man having white skin and blue eyes. The devil ruined whatever Ekeko built, and the last was forced to run away.
One day, the Awka and Ekeko arrived at the same village. To prevent further destruction, Ekeko gave himself to Awka. He was tortured and dismembered and his body parts were buried in different parts of the High Plateau to avoid his reincarnation. Legend says that his body will be recreated at the Winyay Marca (the Divine City) and will announce the emancipation of the Aymara people. The resemblance of the second part of the legend to historical events and figures is not casual; encasing history into festivals and legends is a favorite way to preserve the past among the locals.

More than just a folkloric event, the "Alasitas" are a vital element of the mixed Andean-Aymara culture of La Paz. This fair is responsible for a massive meeting of 80% of the Indian population in the Andean city, and show well the enduring reality of old popular beliefs, in a festive atmosphere of dances, chants and various celebrations.