The park shelters the highest volcanoes of Bolivia, the tallest being Sajama, rising 6550 meters above sea level. A peace haven, this park will thrill all lovers of the Altiplano, its inhabitants, its wide open-spaces, off-the-beaten-path.

 

Climate

Even if you just visit the national park of Sajama for a trek or a simple visit, we recommend you take along warm clothes, hiking shoes and a good sleeping bag. Between April and October, the days are nice and sunny but as the sun sets, the temperatures rapidly fall to below 32 degree Fahrenheit.

 

Geographic characteristics

The mountain range of Sajama is not part of the Cordilleras located on the East of the Altiplano. Here we are in a large plateau surrounded by volcanoes: the highest being Sajama (el. 6500 m.a.s.l.), the Payachatas (“twin peaks” in Aymara), Pomerape (el. 6100 m.a.s.l.) and Parinacota (el. 6300 m.a.s.l.), natural frontier with Chile, Kondoriri (el. 5200 m.a.s.l.), Guallatiri (el. 6100 m.a.s.l. – on the Chilean side).
Flora: here we find the shrub growing at the highest elevation in the world, the kenua on the hillsides of Sajama.

 

Andean ascents

Maps: IGM 5839 IV Nevado Sajama
IGM 5739 II Nevados Payachatas
Walter Guzman Cordoba’s map

SAJAMA - el. 6520 m.a.s.l.

Plan three days total from the village (el. 4250 m.a.s.l.).
Normal route: From the village, follow the track towards Tomarapi then head right towards the volcano on a dirt track to reach a comfortable base camp at el. 4800 m.a.s.l. (A good part of the approach can be done by 4WD) near Río Aychuta (4h). The ascension follows the Northwest arête.
From base camp, first climb some rocky slopes on the Northern side of the valley and cross the scree in front of you. Climb the NW arête until reaching a large couloir stuck between two ancient lava streams. The altitude camp (el. 5450 m.a.s.l.) is located at the end of the couloir (5h).
The next day, follow the ascent on the arête to the glacier. A series of false summits takes you to the top. The last part can be long and tiring, especially if penitents have formed (very frequent). In general very strong winds.

GUALLATIRI - el. 6065 m.a.s.l.

A chain of volcanoes dominates the border between Bolivia and Chile. One of the most impressive, to the South of the border of Chungara, is the Guallatiri, often recognizable by the smoke escaping its crater. This volcano is particularly active and its latest eruption occurred in 1960.
Beware, it is necessary to obtain a permit to climb it at the CONAF office in Putre (on the way to Arica, one hour from the border) or in Arica the day before the ascent at the very latest. If not, the Guallatiri’s “carabineros” will give you problems. If you come from Bolivia, the custom officers will search your vehicle in Chungara for any fresh produce. Take only cans with you. Or hide the goods well; they will fine you if they find them!
From the village of Guallatiri: the ascent is relatively easy. Take the track leading to the glacier from the village (30 minute). On foot, reach the snowline and set up camp. The ascent can be done by different itineraries; the principal difficulty comes from the frequent penitents covering a good part of the way to the summit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PAYACHATAS, or twin peaks (PARINACOTA and POMERAPE)

Access: same base camp. To reach the camp with a 4WD vehicle (40 minutes), follow the track starting at the soccer field in the village. This track passes through a few hamlets before eventually heading towards the pass. The track then becomes sandy and very steep in parts. Experienced driver recommended!
PARINACOTA - el. 6342 m.a.s.l. This volcano, almost perfect in shape, is the most attempted summit in the park because of its relative easiness for the altitude. At times, it can even be done without crampons or rope. It looks like the volcanoes drawn by children: a perfect conical mound on top of which a huge crater still hot lays open. It is one of the highest volcanoes, still active, in the world. Its slopes are relatively regular over its 360 degrees.
The Parinacota is a summit accessible to all, without any technical difficulty, and ideal to prepare for the ascent of its impressive neighbor, Sajama or its twin, Pomerape. Plan 8 to 11 hours for the round-trip ascent depending on your acclimatization to altitude. The classic itinerary is simple: walk in the direction of the pass separating Parinacota (on the left) and Pomerape (on the right). You will see the trail leading up the volcano.
Depending on the season, penitents may slow down the progress. Beware, do not descend on the other side of the pass (towards Chile), there is a no man’s land between Chile and Bolivia, even the locals don’t go there—possible presence of land mines! Rapid descent in the volcanic cinders.

POMERAPE - el. 6200 m.a.s.l.

Little known summit, but very interesting. Beautiful ascent following very regular 40 degrees snowy slopes. Same base camp as for Parinacota. After you reach the pass (see Parinacota), head to the right towards the slopes.
Once you reach the beautiful uniform slope get your ice-axes out and climb to the summital arête on your left.
Plan 6 to 9 hours round-trip depending on your acclimatization to altitude. Same itinerary for the descent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HIGHLIGHTS

Lauca National Park. All you have to do is cross the border (20 minutes away from the village) to visit this Chilean park, next to the Bolivian park. The lunar landscape will surprise you, and the nice welcome in the village of Parinacota charm you. It would be a shame to not enjoy it (citizens from most Anglo-Saxon countries do not need a visa to enter Chile). Once in Lauca, you can keep on traveling west. 2 hours later, you will reach the beaches of Arica, after crossing beautiful landscapes while traveling on a paved road.

The village of Sajama

constitutes a great base camp from which to visit the surrounding area. In the center of the village, passes a calm river, and as a background we can admire the “Payachatas” (the twin sisters Parinacota and Pomerape).

The hot springs...

The perfect reward after a climb... delightful! ... to bathe in the 38 degree Celsius sulfuric water eau warmed up by the underground magma, under the curious stare of the llamas, while the Sajama turns more and more pink as the sun sets. From the village of Sajama, take the road to the village of Tomarapi (the track circumnavigates the volcano to the North) and follow the sign “aguas termales’; 20 mns away from the village by 4WD. You can also stay close by the springs, at Don Luis and Dona Teodora’s. Give them our best and taste the charqui of lama.

Laguna Huyana Khota

Follow the track: laguna Huyana Khota constitutes an excellent un in the middle of flamingos and vicunas, that come to quench their thirst there every morning matins. Then keep on going to the abandoned village of Tomarapi where is located the first colonial church built in Bolivia (and a guesthouse opened since 2003). From there, the track takes you back to the main road.

Lauca National Park.

Just cross the border (20 minutes from the village) to visit this Chilean park, next to the Bolivian park. The lunar landscape will surprise you, and the nice welcome in the village of Parinacota charm you. It would be a shame to not enjoy it (citizens from most Anglo-Saxon countries do not need a visa to enter Chile). On the main road leading to Chile, 15 minutes after the border and after skirting Lake Chungara, go right at the junction on a track leading to the village of Parinacota. To take the track to salar de Surire or to the base camp of Guallatiri, continue on the main road until you reach the carabineros outpost, and take the track to the south (left).

 

 

ACCESS

By 4WD: From La Paz, the access is easy: 175 miles of paved road, 3-hour drive through beautiful landscapes. Take the road to Oruro until reaching Patacamaya. Head west (on the right at the entrance of the village) on a nice road financed by Chile to facilitate exchanges between the two countries, also a way to facilitate the access to the ocean lost by Bolivia to Chile over 100 years ago. On the side of the road we will see numerous chullpas, pre-Colombian tombs, as well as the colonial church of Curahuara de Carangas. When the weather is clear, Sajama can be spotted from Patacamaya, so you can’t get lost. 10 miles before reaching the border, a sign indicate the village of Sajama, take that dirt road to the village of Sajama.

From Chile: clear the border of Chungara, go for about 10 miles, take the dirt road leading to the park your left, towards the impressive volcano dominating the landscape.

By bus: At the bus terminal in La Paz, board the bus for Arica (Chile – daily departure at 6 a.m.) and stop at the entrance of the park, 10 miles before the border. Wait for a vehicle to take you to village of Sajama or… start walking… (1-hour walk); For the return trip, wait for a bus from the Litoral company on the main road, or hitch hike a truck coming from Chile and going to La Paz. Once in Patacamaya, you can take a bus.
You will see that Bolivia is still one of few places in the world where the word adventure still means something…
Once, on this same road, while on our way back from an ascent of Sajama, we picked up an Aymara couple. The wife, without a word, without a sight, laid down on the back seats… It goes to show how urgent it was for them to reach the hospital in Oruro. Very kindly they offered that we picked a mane for their child.